In Accra, Ghana, textile waste is rapidly polluting the water, devastating the wildlife, destroying the beaches, and poisoning our communities. How does a t-shirt donated in Durham, NC end up in a tangled mass on a beach in Accra? Every week, 15 million items are baled up and sent to Kantamanto Market, the largest secondhand market in the world. Many of those 15 million items will not be resold, repaired, or upcycled. Our research has indicated that around 40% of the average secondhand clothing bale opened within the market will end up leaving the market as waste. Due to resource constraints, Accra lacks the infrastructure necessary to manage this waste, leaving much of this textile waste to be disposed of in informal settlements, burn piles, or swept into the open gutter where they will eventually wash out to sea, wrapping around themselves and creating massive clothing tentacles.
Our team at The Or Foundation is committed to recovering and rebuilding. Every week in Accra, Ghana, we conduct tag audits where we search and record any visible and accessible fashion tags to trace the brands whose business model produces the waste in the first place, and we hold beach cleanups where we remove an average of 10 tons each week. Our ocean is not a neutral space. Patterns of overconsumption and overproduction fueled by wealthier nations have exploited the shared resource for centuries, leaving the Global South to bear the brunt of the consequences. By cleaning up our oceans, we are not only removing harmful textiles and debris, but we’re also sending a message that environmental justice must go hand in hand with the fight for social justice.
Mother Jones Reader, this World Oceans Day, we invite you to contribute to our efforts to recover and rebuild, to bring Accra’s coastal ecosystem back to life and to hold global brands accountable to the business model of disposable fashion, because our ocean is not disposable. It is life.
Happy World Oceans Day!
In Solidarity,
The Or Foundation Team
P.S. The Or Foundation is Hiring! Visit us to learn more about our open positions, stay in contact, and follow us on Instagram!
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